How to Sew with Knits

by erika on May 18, 2010

It has come to my attention that many people think knits are one of the most difficult fabrics to work with, and so they steer away from them. Please, don't let this be you! There are so many great reasons to work on knits. While t-shirts and leggings may be cheap, they aren't always, and store-bought quality is often questionable.

The plethora of knits available on the market today make it possible for you to create so many interesting garments, whether for yourself or for a loved one. Knits often don't fray, and because they are stretchy, they are so much more forgiving when it comes to fit, requiring less finessing in sizing. Once you find a patttern you like, it will be easy for you to put together a t-shirt or leggings in a very short time.

There are some general rules when working with knits. Using the right needle is probably the most important. For most knits you will be fine with a ballpoint needle. A the tip of the ballpoint needle is rounded, so it will slide past the elastic in the fabric rather than bouncing off it and causing skipped stitches. Use a finer needle for lightwheight knits and a larger one for heavier knits like polar fleece. For a 4-way stretch fabric like swimwear, you should use a stretch needle.

The second thing to get right when working with knits is the stitch you use to construct your garment. For seams, use a reinforced straight stitch (also known as the triple stitch) or a lightning stitch or a very narrow zigzag. All these stitches have stretch built in, so your seam won't pop when you wear the garment. For hems, a twin needle with a regular straight stitch will give you 2 rows of stitching on the right side, and a zigzag on the wrong side of your garment. Again, the stitch will have built-in stretch.

This chart is a handy reference tool with pictures of various stitches and brief descriptions of what they would be used for. It was written for older Husqvarna Vikings, but the information is still relevant for all makes and models.

For more hints and tips, check out this fabulous article from Threads Magazine: A Primer on Sewing Knits

As for fabric, work with the best quality you can find. We carry knits from Siltex, a Canadian, family owned and operated company. I made a t-shirt from their interlock in high school that I am still able to wear today, although it's much shorter than I would prefer now... The fabric hasn't pilled at all. Siltex prints (which we just got in) are chosen to match their solids. These prints, with fairies, dinosaurs, flowers and tools will be a hit with kids.

As for patterns, check out Kwik Sew! Their designs are relatively simple without too many pieces. The classic shapes are sure to fit and become a staple in your sewing "wardrobe". We carry some of their line, or you can order off their website. If you sew for children you will love the Ottobre magazine. The above photo is from their latest issue.

Enjoy working with knits, and always remember you can come in any time with any questions. We are here to help!!

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